Appreciate TJ Lift advice

[Schwarttzy]

Those guys telling you that you need a brake upgrade are crazy rich, and at worst you and go to auto zone and buy ZJ rear brakes and WJ for the front. I have driven a TJ Rubicon that I was trying to buy 35's 6" of long arm lift and factory gears, there was no problems. I wasn't going to be racing down the streets in it but its a jeep there is no need to.

[SunDvl]

You absolutely do not need 4.88's with 33's. Every piece of information you receive is nothing more than opinion or preference, remember that. Not to mention people tend to offer up what they 'think' they would do, not what they have done. I am personally running 33's with 3.73's (stock on my TJ) and have been for 4 years. I would love the bump to 4.10's but don't have the time or funds to make it happen (not to mention, I don't want to put money in to weak axles). Unfortunately I do not have the link, but there is a graph online of what tire size/gear ratio will return what RPM's. The graph is not biased and would direct you how to retain your current RPM with whatever size tire you are looking for.

Basically, I am saying there is no reason to dump money into a regear until you have decided you are unhappy with your Jeep's performance.

[adaygeorge]

this is the chart.

http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartable.htm

[98xj]

HAHA oh man a tj rubicon is way diff. then just a tj. lol if you are only going to run 33s then you dont need to regear but if you are going to jump to 35s in the years to come then id say 4.88 at the least but 5.13 is what i would do. your tranny has a lot to do with it as well... a bud of mine has a 5 speed stick and gets away with 4.88 but another bud as a 4 speed and went with 5.13 b/c of the 4 speed auto...i was just reading jp mag. and there was a chart with what gears to run with what tires and tranny . its last months might be something you may want to look into. haha and for brakes just get the better pads when you need new ones. if you do them yourself you are already saving money so buy the best. thats just the way i look at it

Dan
PS nice looking rubicon. keep it stock and skid it and wheel the crap out of it!

[98xj]

dude instead of wasting money on a lift and tires get the Advance Adapters Jeep Wrangler Rubicrawler Kit - Double Down. http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_1001_jeep_wrangler_rubicrawler_kit/index.html
i think its like $1500 or $1600 which is what a lift and tires could run depending on what you go with
its an option and i think i may get this when i get my jk rubicon instead of lifting it and putting bigger tires under it. i would just have to check and see if it voids the warranty, because i know lifting it does.

[goodyear35]

Dude that rubicrawler doubler is the bomb if I had an auto trans there would be one on my jeep.

[snwchris]

Your stock 4.10 in the Rubi are perfect for 33's and you can get away for a while with them on 35's
I've been running 33's on my rubi for 3yrs now and works perfectly.

You'll want 4.88's for the 35's if you have manual otherwise the 5.13's for your auto

You don't need the vanco brake kit, your brakes will be fine, at most upgraded pads will be fine... your not racing the jeep...

Chris

[RubiconRazorback]

In on this late so I don't know if you've done anything yet...

Don't get the RC lift for your Rubi unless someone gives it to you for free. The guys at RC will tell you themselves if you call them that the lift was NOT meant for a Rubi. Their "progressive rate" springs were meant to replace some of the lighter spring rates that DC sent from the factory.

It's true you won't NEED to regear for 33s or for that matter 35s, but I promise you'll want to. Anyone that says different is fooling themselves. Especially if you have the 42RLE. With that 0.69 OD you will want lower gears just to be able to use your overdrive.

Someone mentioned a Currie longarm a page or two back. There's no such thing. The only suspension Currie makes for a TJ now is their 4" short arm which is probably the best 4" short-arm you can possibly buy as a "kit". Currie used to make a mid-arm length suspension with their J-arms but they don't sell those anymore and if you can find the arms on Craigslist or E-bay it's like finding the holy grail.

If you're looking for a 2.5-3" suspension for your Rubi, do as someone earlier suggested and call Dirk at dpgoffroad or the guys at Rokmen for an OME setup. Either that or get the Currie components sans their springs and get AEV 3" springs instead.

[oddball]

dude instead of wasting money on a lift and tires get the Advance Adapters Jeep Wrangler Rubicrawler Kit - Double Down. http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_1001_jeep_wrangler_rubicrawler_kit/index.html
i think its like $1500 or $1600 which is what a lift and tires could run depending on what you go with
its an option and i think i may get this when i get my jk rubicon instead of lifting it and putting bigger tires under it. i would just have to check and see if it voids the warranty, because i know lifting it does.

That's cool and I am interested in it but I fail to see how that will replace a lift & tires? What am I missing?

In on this late so I don't know if you've done anything yet...

Don't get the RC lift for your Rubi unless someone gives it to you for free. The guys at RC will tell you themselves if you call them that the lift was NOT meant for a Rubi. Their "progressive rate" springs were meant to replace some of the lighter spring rates that DC sent from the factory.

It's true you won't NEED to regear for 33s or for that matter 35s, but I promise you'll want to. Anyone that says different is fooling themselves. Especially if you have the 42RLE. With that 0.69 OD you will want lower gears just to be able to use your overdrive.

Someone mentioned a Currie longarm a page or two back. There's no such thing. The only suspension Currie makes for a TJ now is their 4" short arm which is probably the best 4" short-arm you can possibly buy as a "kit". Currie used to make a mid-arm length suspension with their J-arms but they don't sell those anymore and if you can find the arms on Craigslist or E-bay it's like finding the holy grail.

If you're looking for a 2.5-3" suspension for your Rubi, do as someone earlier suggested and call Dirk at dpgoffroad or the guys at Rokmen for an OME setup. Either that or get the Currie components sans their springs and get AEV 3" springs instead.

Oh man! Where were you last week?! Joking... (although I need to recheck my settings here, I'm not receiving email updates to this thread). Anyway, just this past week (4/14/10) my RC 2.5" arrived on my front porch. I do know there is a 60 day no questions asked return policy. For the record, I haven't opened any of the three boxes everything came in. It's sitting in my garage waiting for me to install.

As I replied to 98xj's post, I can't imagine running Cliffs or Badlands, etc., (successfully) without some sort of lift? I really liked the idea of larger tires with as little lift possible. Which reminds me, I plan to go with Xenon flat flares instead of genuine flat fenders. I've been under the impression I can do this cheaper with basically the same results.

Okay so what I have done to date is the JKS 1.25" BL along with the JKS 1" BMML.



Yes, I have the auto trans, and I have decided I want to run 33's. On a side note, I came here to ask if I go with 33" GY Kevlar MT/R's, should I chose 10.5 or 12.5 width tires?

Now it seems I am back to square one? Thanks alot guys. But seriously I do appreciate the replies. And I've found the button below to subscribe to this topic should anyone offer suggestions or tips. Thanks.

EDIT:
I came across your thread during a search on the RC 2.5 topic at ROF. So when did the guys at RC confirm this? In the thread on ROF, you state it wasn't confirmed by them. Anyway, I don't have a hardtop but I'm wondering if adding the RC .075 spacers would improve the lift?

Does anyone know if simply adding the spacers to the kit I already have is all I would need to do? IOW, would I have to do anything else when adding the spacers to my lift kit? Thanks.

[2000tj07]

if your trying to run larger tires with as little lift as possible and your considering tube (Flat) fenders. Might I suggest TNT Customs tube fenders.
http://tntcustoms.com/fullreplacementtubefenders.aspx
These fenders are Full replacements. Unlike other manufacturers where you have to cut your existing ones and bolt theirs to them. The design of these fenders allow you to run one size larger tire with no lift modification. Install was pretty simple and straight forward. I did it in 2 evenings. The only mods under the hood you have to make are to the air intake and re bend your AC lines.





Just my